The Christmas season in Italy goes for three weeks, starting 8 days before Christmas known as the Novena. During this period, children go from house to house reciting Christmas poems and singing.

In some parts shepherds bring musical instruments into the villages, play and sing Christmas songs.

In the week before Christmas children go from house to house dressed as shepherds, playing pipes, singing and reciting Christmas poems. They are given money to buy presents.

A strict feast is observed for 24 hours before Christmas Eve, and is followed by a celebration meal, in which a light Milanese cake called panettone features as well as chocolate.

Presents and empty boxes, are drawn from the Urn of Fate - lucky dip, which always contains one gift per person. By twilight, candles are lighted around the family crib known as the Presepio, prayers are said, and children recite poems.

At noon on Christmas Day the pope gives his blessing to crowds gathered in the huge Vatican square.

In Italy the children wait until Epiphany, January 6, for their presents. According to tradition, the presents are delivered by a kind ugly witch called Befana on a broomstick. It was said that she was told by the three kings that the baby Jesus was born, she was busy and delayed visiting the baby.

She missed the Star lost her way and has been flying around ever since, leaving presents at every house with children in case he is there. She slides down chimneys, and fills stockings and shoes with good things for good children and it is said leaves coal for children who are not so good.

On christmas Eve the dinner is called cenone which is a traditional dish of eel.

Christmas lunch is Tortellini in Brodo which is filled pasta parcels in broth, also served is cappone which is boiled capon, or roasts are served in central Italy.

Another famous cake is pandoro which originated from Verona.

Traditional Italian Christmas Recipes

Here are three recipes for traditional food served during the Christmas season:

Cicerata
Honey-soaked cicerata, so named because the bits of dough are shaped to resemble chickpeas (ceci in Italian), is a sweet dessert that's served during the Christmas holidays.

6 egg whites
5¾ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
12 egg yolks
¼ teaspoon salt
2¾ cups extra-virgin olive oil
¾ cup anise liqueur
¼ cup sugar
1 cup slivered almonds, toasted
1 cup finely diced candied fruit
juice of 8 oranges
3 cups honey
zest of 4 oranges, julienned
¼ cup colored sprinkles

Make the dough: Whip the egg whites until soft peaks hold. Place the flour in the bowl of an electric mixer; work in the egg yolks, salt, ¾ cup of the olive oil, anise liqueur, and sugar. Gently fold in the egg whites with a wooden spoon; the dough should be soft and elastic. If it is too dry, add more liqueur; if it is too wet, add more flour.

Snip into chickpea-sized pieces and roll into tiny spheres. Heat the remaining olive oil until it registers 325 degrees on a thermometer; fry the bits of dough until golden. Remove with a slotted spoon and blot dry on paper towels; arrange on 8 plates, and top with the slivered almonds and candied fruit.

Heat the orange juice in a saucepan; stir in the honey and heat through. Fold in the julienned orange zest. Pour the sauce over each portion, dust with the colored sprinkles, and cool to room temperature before serving.

Serves 8

New Year's Lentils Lenticchie Stufate di Capodanno
Lentils are traditionally eaten on New Year's Day in Italy as a symbol of good luck and prosperity; their round shape, reminiscent of coins, is supposed to ensure riches for the coming year. The accompaniment of choice for lentils is cotechino, a mild-tasting, slow-cooked pork sausage.

½ pound lentils
2 rosemary sprigs
2 garlic cloves, peeled
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup vegetable broth, plus extra if needed
salt and pepper
1 tablespoon tomato paste

Soak the lentils for 1 hour in cold water to cover. Drain; place in a 2-quart pot and cover with cool water, then add 1 sprig of rosemary together with 1 clove of garlic. Bring to a gentle boil, and simmer for 15 minutes. Drain, discarding the rosemary and garlic clove. Mince the remaining garlic. Heat the olive oil in the same pot; add the remaining rosemary and garlic; cool until aromatic, about 1 minute over low heat. Add the lentils, broth, salt, pepper, and tomato paste. Stir well.

Cook until the lentils are tender and most of the liquid has been absorbed, about 20 minutes, adding a little more broth if needed. Adjust the seasoning and serve hot.

Serves 6

Biscotti
These twice-baked (biscottare means to bake twice) biscuits are terrific dunked in Vin Santo, Tuscany's traditional sweet wine.

3 eggs
1 cup sugar
¾ cup vegetable oil
2 teaspoons anise seed
3 cups flour
2 teaspoons baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
1 cup chopped almonds or walnuts

Beat eggs until thick and lemon-colored. Gradually add sugar and beat. Add vegetable oil. Lightly crush anise seed with mortar and pestle. Add to egg mixture.

Sift together flour, baking soda and salt. Gradually add to egg mixture. Beat until smooth. Add almonds or walnuts.

Turn out onto lightly floured board and shape into flat loaves about ¼-inch thick and 2½ inches wide, the length of the baking sheet. Place on greased baking sheets, bake at 375 degrees for 20 minutes.

Remove from oven; cool 2 minutes and slice into ¾-inch pieces. Lay pieces cut sides down on baking sheets. Bake again at 375 degrees for 10 minutes or just until golden brown. Remove to wire racks to cool.

Makes 4 dozen